Sourcing Your Deck Building Materials

Embarking on a significant home improvement project like building a deck is always an exciting endeavor, though often filled with unexpected twists and turns. While we’ve made substantial progress on our much-anticipated deck construction, the journey has been a classic DIY tale of two steps forward, one step back. It’s reminiscent of our 2009 bathroom remodel, where ambitious weekend plans often stretched into weeks, revealing the authentic pace of hands-on home renovation. But that’s the real charm of DIY life – learning, adapting, and ultimately, building something with your own hands.

Laying the Groundwork: Material Delivery and Initial Planning

Our journey began mid-last week with the smooth delivery of all necessary materials from our trusted local 84 Lumber store. The total cost, including lumber, essential screws, various metal hardware, and concrete for the footers, amounted to approximately $1,000. Witnessing the forklift expertly navigate our carport, with its top barely clearing an old plant hook, provided an early, exhilarating moment of relief. It served as a subtle reminder that every detail, no matter how small, plays a crucial role in a successful project.

With materials on site, the real work could commence. My dad joined us bright and early on Thursday morning, ready to lend his invaluable expertise and muscle. Sherry skillfully managed Clara, documented our progress with photographs, and kept our blog updated, all while conferring with us on every decision. The first hour was dedicated to a comprehensive discussion of the entire plan. This crucial step allowed me to solidify my understanding of the construction process and brought my dad up to speed on the specific details of our deck design. We relied heavily on the detailed blueprint provided by 84 Lumber, which visually outlined the structure of our deck frame. While this initial plan didn’t include the specific plank pattern we’ve chosen (which you can preview in this post), it provided the essential structural foundation.

While the architectural drawing might not offer every minute detail, it highlights a key structural aspect: our deck, excluding the stairs, will primarily attach directly to the house, requiring only two independent posts (near labels B and C). According to county regulations, the only required mid-project inspection is for the footings, ensuring our post holes meet the specified depths and widths. Theoretically, we could dig the holes, pass inspection, and then proceed with the rest of the build. However, Sherry and I strategically decided to tackle other sections of the deck before the footing inspection. This approach offers two significant advantages: (A) it allows us to establish the precise placement for our footings, minimizing errors later on, and (B) it enables the inspector to identify any potential deviations from the plan early in the process, saving us the headache of costly rework after the entire structure is completed. Therefore, Thursday’s primary focus was the meticulous installation of the ledger boards and joists, foundational elements for our deck’s stability. My conceptual Photoshop diagram helps illustrate this vital part of the construction:

The Critical Role of Ledger Boards and Flashing

Ledger boards serve as the crucial connection point, securely bolted or screwed into the house on both sides. Joists then attach to these ledger boards, forming the robust framework upon which the decking boards will be fastened. While the concept seems straightforward, the installation of ledger boards involves numerous critical considerations and precise steps. Paramount among these is ensuring the ledger boards extend beyond just the siding or brick facade, anchoring firmly into the house’s band board. Equally vital is the installation of proper flashing to effectively prevent moisture damage and subsequent rot – a common pitfall in deck construction if overlooked. After extensive research, this graphic from Decks.com closely resembles the comprehensive flashing and ledger board setup required for our project:

Flashing Installation: A Foundation of Protection

Our very first hands-on step involved the meticulous installation of flashing. While our county mandates back flashing, we decided to go a step further and add flashing along the top edge as well. Our research indicated that this additional protection significantly enhances the deck’s longevity by shielding it from water ingress and potential rot. Attaching flashing to a brick facade presented its own unique challenge, but a valuable resource on One Project Closer’s deck tutorial guided us through the process. The initial step was to “trench out one of the horizontal mortar joints above the ledger board” by about an inch. I accomplished this by setting the depth of my circular saw and employing a masonry blade, creating a clean, precise groove.

This process generated a considerable amount of dust, resembling a dramatic cloud of smoke. From inside, Clara and Sherry were captivated, glued to the sliding glass doors, observing the action. Clara, with her vivid imagination, excitedly exclaimed “fire is hot!” mistaking the dust for hibachi smoke – a moment that, in retrospect, might have left a lasting impression (more on that here). Thankfully, no actual fires were ignited. Sherry calmly explained to Clara that the white dust was akin to snow, a comforting analogy that instantly calmed her, especially given her affection for Frosty. From that point on, she happily enjoyed watching the construction unfold.

The method involved folding a small hem on the flashing’s end and snugly inserting it into the exposed mortar joint, essentially wedging it into place. Although the tutorial also recommended a bead of clear silicone caulk over the seam, which we plan to apply later, the primary goal was a secure physical fit. For this project, I opted for vinyl flashing, after carefully considering various options. Standard aluminum flashing is generally not recommended for use with pressure-treated wood due to potential chemical reactions and, critically, is not permitted by our county’s building codes. Copper flashing, while an option, was three times the cost and appeared more challenging to work with. Thus, vinyl presented the most practical, cost-effective, and compliant solution. The image below shows a test strip of flashing, demonstrating the intended fit.

Measuring and cutting the vinyl flashing to the correct length with ordinary scissors was surprisingly easy. Bending the folded hem by hand also proved straightforward, though the assistance of a ruler was necessary to firmly seat it into the prepared trench. This snug fit was a reassuring sign of its secure placement.

Our first section of flashing is now securely in position, although it will eventually lay flush against the house once the ledger board is drilled through the brick and affixed over its length. It’s important to note that the ledger board on the brick side of the house will be installed in three distinct sections. This approach is necessary to skillfully navigate around existing obstacles, such as the electrical meter visible on the right side of this picture. Fortunately, our local electrical municipality has approved our deck plans, even though the final deck height will position the meter slightly lower, requiring someone to crouch for readings. This particular detail underscores a crucial lesson for any DIYer: always contact your local utility companies and county zoning departments to confirm there are no obscure regulations, like “the meter must be at eye level,” that could potentially derail your entire project. We’ve heard stories of similar deck projects in other parts of Virginia being denied due to such specific, often overlooked, rules.

Installing the Ledger Board: Precision and Power

With the flashing secured, we shifted our focus to the first piece of the ledger board – a sturdy 2 x 8-foot section of pressure-treated lumber. After cutting it to the precise length with the circular saw, I meticulously marked the locations for our joists. Our county guidelines explicitly state that joists must be no more than 16 inches apart, measured center to center. To ensure accurate screw placement and avoid interference, I used a scrap piece of 2 x 8 lumber to carefully outline where each joist would sit on the ledger board.

Speaking of screws, our county’s deck guide is remarkably specific regarding fastener requirements, as clearly illustrated by this graphic:

The guide stipulated that screws should be spaced no more than 23 inches apart. For simplicity and to enhance structural integrity, I opted for a more conservative 16-inch spacing, which conveniently aligns with placing one screw between each joist, making the pattern much easier to remember and execute.

After meticulously marking the ledger board and pre-drilling pilot holes through both the wood and into the brick, my dad skillfully held the heavy board in place. This allowed me to drive in our first lag screw on one end, just enough to temporarily support the board. We then used a level to ensure perfect alignment before securing the other end with another screw. This strategic approach saved us from the exhausting task of continuously holding the heavy ledger board against the wall throughout the entire fastening process.

The fasteners we are using are heavy-duty, hot-dipped galvanized (HDG) lag screws, one of only two types approved by our county for this critical structural connection. These robust screws are massive: half an inch thick and six inches long, topped with a substantial hex head. To our surprise, my standard power drill lacked the necessary torque to drive these formidable screws entirely into place. This meant we had to resort to hand-wrenching each and every one of them, a task that quickly became arduous.

Fortunately, my dad, ever the innovator, came up with a brilliant, cost-effective solution. He purchased a two-dollar scrap piece of pipe and used it to extend the handle of our socket wrench. This simple modification significantly increased our leverage, transforming a difficult and tiring task into a surprisingly manageable one. It’s these creative, on-the-fly solutions that often define the DIY experience.

Navigating Setbacks and Sustaining Progress

Despite our innovative workaround, we encountered a few frustrating hiccups that led to significant delays. Our first setback involved the lag screws themselves. We discovered that the six-inch screws, initially purchased, were not long enough to fully penetrate the house’s band board, a critical structural requirement by the county. A quick check in our crawl space confirmed this deficiency. We then had to make an unexpected trip to acquire longer, eight-inch screws. While these proved effective in reaching the band board, their increased length made them more prone to breakage during installation, resulting in a couple of snapped screws. Removing these broken fasteners and drilling new pilot holes added further precious hours to our workday. Consequently, by 2 PM, after over four solid hours of dedicated effort, this was the extent of our accomplishment. A definite “womp-womp” moment!

Fortunately, a much-needed lunch break, perhaps fueled by the restorative power of a Whopper, allowed us to regain our rhythm and significantly boost our productivity. In the subsequent couple of hours, we made substantial progress, successfully completing the remainder of the ledger board installation on the brick side of the house. Woo hoo! This renewed momentum was incredibly satisfying.

Without pausing to celebrate, we immediately shifted our attention to the ledger board destined for the siding side of the alley. Our goal was to ensure this section sat perfectly level with the newly installed brick-side ledger. To achieve this precision, we temporarily affixed a joist using metal hangers, loosely nailing it in place. This temporary joist served as a vital reference point, aiding in our leveling efforts.

After cutting another 2 x 8-foot board to serve as this temporary joist, I held it against the siding wall, using my level as a precise guide. Once the ideal position was determined, I marked the siding wall, indicating the exact elevation where the top edge of our ledger board on that side should be installed. This meticulous pre-marking is crucial for achieving a perfectly level deck surface.

Removing Siding for Proper Ledger Attachment

A fundamental rule in deck construction dictates that a ledger board must never be attached directly through siding. This meant we needed to carefully remove the section of siding that obstructed our ledger board’s proper connection to the house’s band board. Given our home features wood siding, the task involved cutting it with a circular saw. I won’t lie; the prospect of intentionally cutting into perfectly good siding was a bit unnerving. It just felt inherently wrong. Nevertheless, I precisely measured up from my ledger board mark, accounting for the width of the decking and adding a small, strategic gap. This gap is a helpful detail, preventing moisture from becoming trapped against the siding and promoting proper drainage. I then used my level to draw a perfectly straight line along the length of the wall. A laser level would have expedited this process considerably, but we had inadvertently left it at my dad’s house – a classic DIY oversight!

This particular stage of the project seemed to qualify as the day’s “exciting part,” as Clara once again became utterly fixated at the window. While I’d love to believe she was deeply fascinated by the intricacies of construction, I suspect her primary motivation was to capture her grandpa’s attention. Picture a broken record of “Hi Tom Tom! Hi Tom Tom! Hi Tom Tom!” echoing like a child’s incessant “Are we there yet?” on a long journey to Disney.

Before making the cut, I meticulously set the depth of my circular saw, ensuring it would only penetrate the siding and not inadvertently damage the underlying band board of the house. With the depth precisely calibrated, I followed my marked line as carefully and steadily as possible, executing the cut with utmost precision.

The combined noise and dust generated by the saw proved to be a bit overwhelming for Clara. Around this point, she decided to seek refuge and quite literally took cover amongst the curtains, a humorous end to her construction observation shift.

Once the cut line was established, it required a bit of careful prying, but we quickly managed to loosen and remove all of the targeted wood siding from the wall. Exposing the underlying structure was a truly satisfying sight, signaling a significant step forward in our project.

Day’s End: Foundation Laid, Storm Averted

As the clock neared 6 PM, Sherry and my mom had a well-deserved dinner waiting for us inside. However, with a thunderstorm forecasted for that evening, I was determined to at least get the flashing installed on the newly exposed siding-side of the house. To do this, I cut sheets of flashing to length and carefully shoved approximately 5 to 6 inches of each sheet up under the bottom edge of the existing siding, creating an overlapping seal. I then nailed the flashing in place, just beneath the siding. I plan to apply silicone caulk over these nail spots later to ensure no moisture can seep through, and I’ll also run the required bead of caulk across the flashing on the brick side of the house for complete protection.

With that crucial task completed, we decided to officially call it a day. While we hadn’t come close to measuring for the post holes, or even managed to get both ledger boards fully installed, I felt incredibly good about the work we had accomplished. Despite its current appearance, which doesn’t yet resemble a deck, we’ve successfully laid essential groundwork. Experienced builders often emphasize that the initial leveling and framing stages demand the most time and meticulous effort, precisely because they form the foundational structure for a durable, long-lasting final product. We are now eagerly anticipating smoother sailing as we navigate past these initial, often challenging, setup phases. Here’s hoping, at least! We certainly won’t be breaking any speed records with our construction method, as we can only dedicate one or two days a week to this project. However, we recognize that this pace is quite typical for most evening and weekend DIY enthusiasts out there, making our journey a relatable one.

Oh, and I definitely earned the unofficial “dirtiest person” award for the day. Between the fine dust kicked up from cutting the mortar joints and the coarser sawdust from slicing off sections of siding, I was quite the sight. Sherry, in particular, was quite amused by the distinct goggle line I was proudly sporting across my face.

What’s Next: Footings, Inspection, and Future Deck Progress

Our immediate next steps will involve completing the installation of the remaining ledger board sections and then, finally, digging some rather sizable footing holes for the support posts. Once those are ready, we’ll schedule our first official county inspection – a crucial milestone in our deck building journey. Rest assured, we’ll keep you fully updated every step of the way. Here’s hoping that slow and steady not only builds the deck but also ensures its enduring quality.

Are you currently immersed in a home improvement project that’s proving to be more extensive or complex than initially anticipated? Have you encountered unexpected snags, or are the demands simply greater than you foresaw? I find immense comfort in knowing I’m not alone in facing project delays, and there’s a profound satisfaction that comes from completing a task correctly, even if it requires a little extra time and effort. We’re eager to share more exciting deck progress later in the week! Until then, you can probably find me diligently trying to coax all the stubborn sawdust out of my eyebrows.