Transform Your Kitchen on a Budget: The Ultimate Guide to DIY Faux Shiplap Paneling for Only $31

Dreaming of a stylish, modern kitchen but dreading the high costs of renovation? What if we told you that you could achieve a sophisticated, paneled wall treatment, often mistaken for classic shiplap, for less than the price of a takeout dinner? It sounds unbelievable, but we successfully installed this stunning faux shiplap backsplash for a mere $31 in our duplex kitchens! This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step of this budget-conscious DIY project, proving that a high-end look doesn’t have to come with a hefty price tag.

Our journey to this ingenious solution began during the extensive renovation of our duplex kitchens. We initially considered extending our patterned tile across two walls, but the thought of visual chaos in a compact space quickly led us to seek an alternative. We needed something subtle, yet durable enough to withstand daily kitchen life, easy to maintain, and, crucially, incredibly affordable. The answer emerged in the form of this elegant wall paneling – a design choice that not only met all our criteria but also brought a clean, contemporary feel to both kitchens. You can explore both duplex kitchen reveals here to see the full transformation.

Whether you refer to it as planking, horizontal paneling, or faux shiplap, this wall treatment has gained immense popularity in contemporary interior design. While true shiplap features interlocking boards, our DIY method creates the same coveted aesthetic at a fraction of the cost and effort. We’ve long admired its versatility in various design styles, from the modern coastal vibes of Shea McGee’s projects to the cozy appeal of Chris & Julia’s famous TV wall. After years of admiring from afar, we finally decided to dive in, and our overwhelming verdict is: what took us so long?

At its core, this DIY faux shiplap involves meticulously cut, thin pieces of plywood (or, more accurately, underlayment) nailed to the wall with small, consistent spacers in between. A final coat of durable, easy-to-wipe semi-gloss paint, color-matched to our cabinets, ensures a seamless and protective finish. This treatment has proven exceptionally resilient, enduring the vigorous use of 22 renters over the summer months. Much like a traditional beadboard backsplash, it provides a stain-proof and durable surface that still looks brand new, a testament to its practicality and longevity in a high-traffic area like a kitchen.

The Ultimate Budget Secret: Unlocking Affordable Faux Shiplap

The key to achieving this striking look without breaking the bank lies in a clever material choice. Forget the expensive pre-made shiplap panels sold at home improvement stores. While convenient, options like Lowe’s 8-foot boards at $6 each or Home Depot’s at $5 can quickly inflate your project costs. Our secret weapon? Inexpensive 5mm underlayment. By cutting your own strips from these large sheets, you can slash the price to less than $2 per 8-foot board!

This simple switch in materials translated into significant savings for our duplex project. For each kitchen backsplash, the wood cost dropped from an estimated $60-$75 using pre-made panels to a mere $22.50. Across two kitchens, that’s a savings of nearly $100 on lumber alone. While this budget-friendly approach does require a bit more elbow grease and DIY effort, the financial reward is substantial, making it an incredibly satisfying endeavor for any homeowner looking to maximize their renovation budget.

Of course, if speed is your priority and your budget allows, opting for the pricier, pre-primed, and self-spacing pre-made shiplap is a valid choice. However, we were inspired by Jenny Komenda’s ingenious budget bathroom shiplap project, which encouraged us to explore a similar cost-saving strategy. Although the specific MDF she used is no longer available, our discovery of the 5mm underlayment proved to be an excellent alternative. While it exhibits a slightly more pronounced woodgrain than MDF, we found this subtle texture adds character and depth to the finished look. The results have been exceptional, providing a durable and aesthetically pleasing finish. Now, let’s dive into the detailed tutorial!

Materials & Tools: What You’ll Need

For our two kitchens, the total cost for new materials was just $62 ($45 for wood and $17 for paint). We already owned most of the necessary tools, which highlights the value of investing in quality equipment for long-term DIY projects. These items often pay for themselves across multiple home improvements. A crucial note for safety: if you have a gas stove, always check local building codes. Some regulations prohibit wood or beadboard backsplashes unless a metal strip is installed above the stove, as Chris & Julia demonstrated in their kitchen. Fortunately, our duplexes feature electric stoves, simplifying the process (fun fact: Cape Charles, VA, where our duplex is located, has no natural gas lines!).

Here’s a comprehensive list of what we used:

• 4 x 8′ panels of 5mm underlayment ($15/panel) – we needed 3 panels for both kitchens, yielding eight 8′ strips from each panel.
• Primer (a quart should be sufficient for a project of this size).
• Semi-gloss paint (color-matched to your cabinets for a cohesive look).
• Wood Filler (essential for a smooth, flawless finish).
• Caulk (for sealing edges and creating a professional appearance).
• Paint brush & small foam rollers.
• Small spackle knife.
• Nail gun (this is ours) – a cordless option offers greater freedom.
• Table saw (only if you cut strips yourself; this is ours) – invaluable for accurate, repetitive cuts.
• Miter saw (this is ours) – a hand saw can work but will take longer.
• Jig saw (for cutting around outlets and switches – this is ours).
• Drill/driver (this is ours) and 1/2″ drill bit (like this).
• Sanding block (for smoothing rough edges).
• Stud finder (here’s our favorite one) – essential for secure installation.
• Level and pencil.

Step 1: Precisely Cut Your Underlayment Boards to Size

The 5mm underlayment typically comes in large 4 x 8-foot panels. For easier transportation and initial handling, we had our panels cut into fourths (12-inch strips) at the store. This step, while a time-saver for transport, sometimes elicits a comical reaction from lumber section employees who are perhaps experiencing “shiplap fatigue.” Despite the eye-roll we encountered, we eventually got our panels cut to a manageable size.

Back home, we used our table saw to rip these 12-inch strips into their final 5 7/8-inch width. It’s crucial to aim for slightly less than 6 inches (ours were 5 7/8 inches) because the saw blade itself removes about 1/8 inch of material. Failing to account for this kerf loss can result in your last piece being significantly shorter than the others, compromising the uniformity of your design. Once your guide is set, you can efficiently cut all your strips in no time, ensuring consistent plank widths.

If you’re fortunate enough to convince a store employee to cut your strips to their final width, you can bypass the table saw step. However, you’ll still need either a miter saw or a hand saw to trim each strip to the precise length required for your wall. Our particular wall was just under 8 feet, meaning only a small amount needed to be trimmed from each piece for a perfect fit. After all the cuts are made, take a moment to smooth any rough or splintered edges with a sanding block. This seemingly small step significantly contributes to a professional and splinter-free finish, especially important before priming and painting.

Step 2: Prepare Your Wall for Installation

Proper wall preparation is paramount for a smooth and secure installation. Begin by safely removing any obstacles, such as electrical outlet covers and switch plates. Remember to always turn off the power to these outlets at your circuit breaker for safety before touching them. Once the covers are off, gently loosen the screws holding the actual outlets and switches, allowing them to pull slightly away from the wall. This creates space for the wood paneling to sit directly behind them, ensuring that your cover plates will sit flush with the finished surface.

Next, you’ll need to locate your wall studs. Securely fastening your panels into studs is crucial for a durable and long-lasting installation. We’ve found our magnetic StudBuddy to be an incredibly reliable and low-tech tool for this task. Once you’ve identified the studs, use a pencil and a long level to draw distinct vertical lines from floor to ceiling at each stud location. These lines will serve as invaluable visual guides as you work your way up the wall, ensuring that every nail finds its mark. Don’t worry if your initial marks don’t extend all the way up; as you progress, the visible nail marks from lower boards will help you track the stud line.

Step 3: Precisely Cut Holes for Outlets & Switches

One of the most intimidating yet essential steps is cutting accurate holes for electrical outlets and switches. The goal is for the outlet to rest *on top* of the edge of your plank, similar to how it would with tile. If your cut is too large and the outlet recedes behind the panel, your cover plate won’t sit flush, leaving an unsightly gap. My initial board required cuts for two outlets, so precision was paramount.

To mark the horizontal dimensions, hold the board directly in front of the outlet and carefully mark the left and right edges. While the marks in photos might sometimes appear wider due to perspective, trust that careful measurement here is key. For the vertical dimensions, a clever trick involves using a scrap piece of wood. Position the scrap piece above or below the outlet, aligning it with the marked horizontal lines, then mark the top and bottom edges of the outlet onto your board.

With both horizontal and vertical measurements transferred, draw a precise guide on the back of your board, outlining the exact rectangular area to be cut. For cutting these openings, we relied on our trusty jig saw. Since you can’t start a jig saw blade from the middle of a board, create two starting points by drilling 1/2-inch holes in opposite corners of your marked rectangle. These pilot holes provide an entry point for the jig saw blade, allowing you to easily cut along your lines with accuracy and control. Always double-check your measurements before cutting, as mistakes here can be costly.

Step 4: Securely Nail Your Boards to the Wall

With your cuts made and outlets ready, it’s time to begin installing the panels. Starting from the bottom and working your way up the wall, each board is carefully placed and secured. The signature look of shiplap comes from the consistent, narrow gaps between each plank. We achieved this effortlessly using leftover tile spacers, which provide uniform spacing. However, any small, consistent object can work – Jenny Komenda famously used pennies!

While some DIYers opt for construction adhesive like Liquid Nails in addition to nails, we chose to secure our boards solely with 1.75-inch brad nails driven directly into the studs using our cordless nail gun. In a steamy environment like a bathroom, adhesive might be a wise addition to prevent warping. However, for our kitchen backsplash, we intentionally skipped it to avoid damaging the drywall should we ever decide to remove the shiplap in the future. We are delighted to report that our panels have held up perfectly, confirming our decision for a long-lasting, nail-only installation.

Had we planned this project earlier in our renovation, we likely would have installed the paneling before hanging the hood cabinet. This would have streamlined the process by eliminating the need to cut boards around it. Nevertheless, trimming the boards to fit precisely around existing cabinets was a manageable task. Take your time with each plank, ensuring it’s level and the spacers are properly in place before nailing, to guarantee a flawless and uniform final appearance.

Step 5: Prime, Patch, and Paint for a Flawless Finish

Once all the boards are installed, you’ll be greeted with the raw wood paneling. While we unexpectedly appreciated the natural wood look for its inherent texture – and it could certainly be a unique unpainted ceiling or wall treatment in a different setting – our goal for the kitchen was a pristine, wipeable, and blended finish. Therefore, priming was the essential next step. Although you could fill nail holes first, we personally find it much easier to spot every single nail hole and any prominent wood knots *after* a coat of primer has been applied. We had a nearly full gallon of our favorite primer on hand, but a quart should suffice for a project of this size. Begin by using a brush to thoroughly prime all the cracks and edges.

During the brush application, you might notice small globs of primer accumulating in the gaps between boards. Keeping a small nail or a pick handy to scrape these clear will prevent an uneven finish. While some might argue for slightly larger gaps to avoid this, it was a minor issue that didn’t detract from the beautiful final result. After the initial brush application, use a small foam roller to apply primer evenly across the entire wall surface. Allow this first coat to dry completely.

Once the primer is dry, all nail holes and any remaining imperfections, like stubborn wood knots, will become clearly visible. This is the perfect time to apply our go-to pink wood filler, which conveniently turns white when dry and ready for sanding. Using a small spackle knife, carefully fill each indentation, ensuring a smooth, level surface. After the filler is completely dry, gently sand these spots until they are flush with the surrounding wood, removing any excess. Roll on a quick second coat of primer to ensure optimal adhesion and a uniform base for your paint.

Finally, it’s time for the color! We painted the entire surface using a semi-gloss white paint that was custom color-matched to our existing cabinets. For a perfect match, we simply brought a scrap piece of a cabinet filler panel to the paint desk for scanning. Thanks to the thorough priming, we achieved excellent coverage with just one coat of paint. Once the paint was dry to the touch, we meticulously caulked all the edges using our favorite kitchen caulk to create a seamless, professional, and water-resistant seal. And with that, your stunning, budget-friendly faux shiplap backsplash is complete!

The Finished Look: Affordable Style, Enduring Quality

While we tackled this entire process for two kitchens, making it a bit more time-consuming than a single project, both were completed over a single weekend. The result? A remarkably straightforward, affordable, and incredibly durable wall treatment that perfectly complements the surrounding kitchen elements without stealing the spotlight from our more vibrant tile and brick chimneys.

We are thrilled with how this faux shiplap paneling transformed the side of the kitchen, adding texture and character without overwhelming the space. It’s incredibly satisfying when a DIY project delivers on its promise of affordability and simplicity, while also exceeding expectations in terms of lasting quality and visual appeal. This paneling has truly proven its worth, maintaining its fresh, clean look despite constant use.

Inspired to tackle more budget-friendly home improvements? Explore these popular DIY projects from our archives for further inspiration:

• Our $57 board & batten wall treatment (surprisingly simple and impactful!)
• How we added easy & affordable landscape lighting to enhance curb appeal.
• Adding crown molding to the top of your cabinets for a custom, built-in look.
• Or adding crown molding around your entire room for architectural elegance.
• How to install a kitchen backsplash for $200, a classic and enduring update.
• How 13 sheets of tile majorly upgraded our laundry room, adding style to a functional space.
• Sanding & refinishing a dining table to give old furniture new life.
• A quick way to hang curtain rods for perfectly styled windows.
• How to install your own under cabinet lighting for enhanced ambiance and functionality.

P.S. Discover many more inspiring projects & updates in our Home Improvement category.

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